Results tagged “F.W 09” from one management blog
Through the years it seems that Belgium has continued to produce one creative force after another, from models such as Anne Catherine Lacroix to Tanga, or Willy Vanderperre + Olivier Rizzo to Serge Leblon, and designers like Dries Van Noten and the list goes on... You are one of the major contributors of fashion out of Belgium and now based out of Citizen K...what do you think it is about that country that breeds such creative talent?
Belgian culture is really specific. we have this mix of northern and southern influence in our culture. That means that in the fashion we have this subtile différence by mixing a real English, dutch even german influence in a classical more parisian élégance.
Concept and second degree is also a big part of our culture, main belgian stylists and designers bring concept and arty influence in their work and also touch of humor, i think that makes the différence and charm of their work.
Belgian models have all great personalities, from tanga to élise, anne Catherine, hannelore, roos to name a few. all these girls really involve themselves in the pictures. they're not just modelling but really try to understand the fashion and the stories. they often make choices of working with particular people. they really have a clever view of their part in the business.
Of course, girls like Tanga brought in the nineties a really new vision of beauty also. The cinematic, intimist view of Serge Leblon or Willy Vanderperre, and the really precise and so clever interprétation of fashion of Olivier RIzzo brought a really belgian touch in editorials worldwide, as much as the designers did when they arrived in the nineties with their unique interprétation of japanese influence mix with European ones.
Has fashion always been something that you were interested in or did you fall into it through some random sequence of events that brought you to this position as some do?
I've always been interested in fashion. when i was very young, Vogue and Marie Claire were my great escapes. i've really been obsessed by fashion image, editorials more than designing clothes, so i've logically do a fashion school (la cambre in Brussels) after my studies, i began to work as assistant at citizen k right after.
I think that the major motivation behind different stylists varies, some find the clothes are the most important aspect, others it's the model and how she's styled, and for some it's the whole frame or art direction of the image...what is your main focus when working on your season/stories for Citizen?
All the image is really important but as stylist. we have this « mission » to give new ideas or unique interprétation of fashion.
Personally, the catwalk is a first view of the designer, our mission is to understand this fashion and than go further on interprétation, not only about putting the main outfits on the right context and with the right casting but also to interprate totally the fashion, have a real concept, idea and personnality behind all these.
This is the most difficult part of the job finding how to interprate the fashion but being avant garde, elegant and clever.
Most of the magazines sometimes only inspire themselves from the shows, i think that's the first step of the process, unfortunately fashionbusiness is really about being bored by everything very quick so we have to give fresh ideas throughout the season.
Casting is a main part of the editorials of course and really is as important as the fashion in the image, that often makes the difference.
Do you see yourself staying in Europe or is there any American publication that you would be interested in working for in the future?
I love the american way of seing fashion. there's this real eternal élégance, of course vogue and w are my favourites, vogue for this really perfect vision of elegance and w for its avant garde and humoristic view of fashion.
V mag is also really fun for its energy and point of view.
I think it's only normal to have a favorite in your own field, every photographer seems to know who they have been the most obsessed with from now or times past, who is the stylist that you've always held high up on that pedestal through your years in the business?
I've grown with all these late eighties early nineties élégance. my favourites stay those incredible chic editors such as Manuela Pavesi, Anna Della Russo, Carlyne Cerf De Dudzeele, joe Mc Kenna who really influence my work everyday.
I love also the unique style of people such as Katie Grand, Marie Amelie Sauve, Carine Roitfeld, Olivier Rizzo, Venetia Scott, Melanie Ward for what they brought into fashion.
I think that with these changing times in our business ,we are about to see the emerging new big stylists .
I've always wished that someone would do a story inspired by the movie Tank girl, what is the one concept, storyboard you've always wanted to shoot and not yet shot?
There are really so much movies, videoclips, soap operas the list would be to long...For now, i'm a bit obsessed by truth in pictures, and truth in general.
What made you start designing?
This plan of launching my own label had been in the back of my head for a long time but I just didn't feel ready for it 5 years ago. When I was a child, my mother would take me every week to her dressmaker so we could choose the fabrics and designs for her next outfit so I started giving my opinions on it pretty early on. Styling is also a great way to analyze how things are constructed and marketed, especially for someone who never went to design or fashion school like me. It was probably longer than a scholarship, but I feel that I learned way more, and I now have the bonus of knowing a lot of great people who support me today.
What is your biggest inspiration in Life that you feel contributes the most to your design and style?
Myself. The way I evolve, I think, I observe. What you see is what you are.
It would seem to the outside world that your creativity pervades all areas of your life, from your speech to your design to any area you occupy..if you were to fit yourself into any one description, what would it be?
Beauty is everywhere, yet perfection is nowhere. I'm a perfectionist and I think that fashion makes me feel that perfection can maybe one day exist. So Fashion is Full of Illusions...
You've chosen to show your collection in New York, which has added a much needed edge to the spectrum of shows here and leaving the paris fashion addicts wondering why your not gracing them with your show? What made you choose to show in New York?
Circumstances have brought me to move around from an early point in my life, and I've felt compelled to continue on doing so. It's this experience that has made me consider things in a wider perspective, with no restrictions really. I want to convey this notion into my line, and design clothes that can be worn anywhere, anytime. I moved to Paris 4 years ago and that's where it all started, the inspiration, the vision, the sketching, the direction and the real debut which was actually in October 2007 in Paris. I felt very comfortable about it and I was very surprised with all of the hype. I'm very lucky to be surrounded by people like Hung Vanngo, Kelly Streit and Wayne Sterling who supported me to show in New York from the very beginning.
This Past season you worked with Patti Wilson on the Show, it came out beautifully..what made you choose to work with her as the stylist for this collection?
Patti Wilson is a wonderful talented human being. It's very important for me to have no reference in my collection of any vintage feeling and Patti has seen fashion from A to Z and knows everything about it and I feel that it's perfect to work with her to create something modern and to make sure that it has no past or reference. I'm very thankful to have Patti and her team around me.
Since your first show you've always managed to mix in big names with brand new faces giving off somewhat of a Jil, Calvin, Prada structure to the casting..is that the result of you being inspired by both the new raw girl as well as the model who may have developed her own brand further or is it more of a delicate balance that you find important in the show..?
I really enjoy working with my casting director Wayne Sterling, because we are always looking for a new, fresh, modern line up that fits perfectly with the collection. We're not interested in an only big model names line up, it's "passe" I think. It's great to work with new fresh awake models that are full of energy and love what they do, we're tired of tired models, they should work in another industry. I think you can see everything on a catwalk and we want to work with fresh, modern, energetic models which my clients want to look alike. I think a perfect example of this is my exclusive this season, Janete who opened the show.
I think a lot of people have been trying to figure out just what your background is? You speak a beautiful French, you spend quite a bit of time in Paris and you are from Montreal..what else are we missing on the background of Rad Hourani?
My dad is Jordanian & my mom is Syrian, I was born in Jordan and my dad and I moved back to Montreal /Canada (where he lived and studied) when I was 16. I moved to Paris when I was 22.
I understand the Success of the line has been quite fast for you and trying to keep up with the production demands has been your biggest challenge with all of this..what do you think it is that makes your line so sellable in a time where even luxury brands have noticed a shift in sales?
I believe that using what I would like to wear as a starting point to the design process is the most truthful and straightforward approach. It allows me to stay focused on my aesthetic statement and also assess my commitment to wearability, functionality, and comfort. I don't need to be the one who makes the boldest statement every season, I'd much rather commit to my personal aesthetics and that of the people who like to wear my clothes. I feel it would be an error to saturate the market too quickly, and rush to complete orders anywhere I can. I wanted to secure a solid manufacturing structure to ensure quality, and to be sold only in the right places. I want my clothes to be rare and perfect, I guess..
Moving into a new time for everyone, what is your biggest inspiration thus far for the next collection? Can we have a hint?
I think in life, we're here to perfect ourselves and learn as much as possible. My inspiration is something that I can't put my fingers on or describe. It's in the air and everywhere. For my 5th collection I want to put all my main classics that I started from the beginning in a way that I see my reflection in. My black and white, red, dark blue, gray, sliver...my main colors. I chose style over fashion and given the nature of the fashion calendar, I have to present my collections on a bi-annual basis, but I design them with the idea that they could be worn by anyone, at any time. Therefore I do not start every new season with a specific theme or concept, but rather try to establish a continuity from one to the next.
Alexander Wang's Accidental Campaign
April 20, 2009 11:01 am
Last week, I got my impressive tripartite "world of Alexander Wang" package with a fold-out pamphlet for his T collection, one book for his fierce runway show, and another with a full range of accessories. But the best part was tucked inside the ready-to-wear book: seven black-and-white spreads, shot by Brit photographer Daniel Jackson and starring Tasha Tilberg, that are a sort of millennial take on Avedon's old Versace campaigns. "We didn't want it to look dated, but it just felt right on Tasha," says Wang, who's been a longtime admirer of Tilberg and finally got his wish to cast her in his Fall show. "You have to have a strong girl who knows how to pose for this direction." (Tilberg clearly does. The shoot wrapped four hours early.) The images certainly feel campaign-worthy, but Wang currently has no plans to buy ad pages. "It's funny, I just heard recently about all these young designers doing mini campaigns," he says. "But we've always had an editorial element to our lookbooks." In other Wang news, the designer's first ever capsule men's collection is coming along nicely for a summer debut. There definitely won't be a runway show, but Wang is still hammering out the how and where. Well, we hear Paris is lovely in July.
Photo: Courtesy of Alexander Wang